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Jack Martin is a renowned stylist and colorist who specializes in complex coloring. For us, he prepared a selection of before and after photos and told what tricks he uses to help clients transition to natural gray hair and look great.
My task was to create a beautiful transition from the gray strands near the face to the main shade. Salt and pepper: beautiful, stylish and gray hair will grow unnoticed. In this case, I needed to tone the bulk of the hair black, completely getting rid of the redhead, and give the hair an ashy tint, since a completely black color would look unnatural. My client was pleased with the result, and I, frankly, think that it turned out great. Gradually, there will be more gray hair, but in the general mass this will happen imperceptibly. And so that the shades do not fade, I would advise using special shampoos that level the yellowness and keep the gray strands silvery.
Highlighting is the way out! Gradually, the colored strands will be replaced by gray ones, but it will not look messy. With this dyeing technique, I first bleach my hair completely, so those women whose hair is relatively healthy, not prone to brittleness and dryness, can cope with the task in one visit to the salon, and if the hair is damaged or repeatedly dyed, the wash will have to be done in several stages. In any case, the result is worth it: luxurious platinum curls do not look gray, rather it is a cold ash blond, and I highly recommend taking a closer look at this coloring for anyone who wants to look natural and not be afraid that gray roots will give out a problem.
I had many such clients after the quarantine: the salons were closed, and many simply did not have the opportunity to paint over the roots. Someone decided on a haircut, but I do not think that this is the only way out. Look how we solved the problem without cutting off the hair: what was possible — we brightened, and where the redhead did not want to leave, we simply painted it over in a graphite shade. My clients noted that most of all they were afraid that gray hair would give them age, but after dyeing, every single one admitted: they look younger!
And here is the opposite example: in this case, the condition of the hair did not allow them to discolor until the complete loss of pigmentation, so we decided that the transformation would be total: both a haircut and coloring in 4 stages. It took us almost 9 hours! But this is one of my best works, with which, fortunately, the client also agrees. She visits me once every 3 months to maintain the shade, and every time I am delighted with how beautiful her hair is.
6. If the hair is badly damaged
Difficult case. The client did not just grow gray roots, before that she did complex multi-tone coloring, and not in the best salon, so her hair was simply “killed”. To be honest, I doubted that it would be possible to keep the length, but we did it!
In this case, the problem was that before the quarantine, the woman painted over her gray hair with dark and very resistant paint. No matter how hard I tried, some of the ends had to be cut off, but we achieved a flawless silver shade. And more, alas, I will not see this beautiful lady … Just kidding!
I wanted to achieve the effect of iridescent, thick, voluminous hair. With the help of toning, I left a darker shade at the roots, and made some of the inner strands graphite gray. The result is an interesting, rich coloration that won’t be too difficult to maintain.
In this case, I combined the coloring with the hair lamination procedure, and instead of exhausted, dried-up, lifeless strands in front of you, there are gorgeous healthy hair.
I’m not going to lie: this coloring took several visits of the client to the salon, because it was difficult to etch the red pigment. But — I managed to do without a haircut, and with the help of masks and wrapping — I returned smoothness to my hair.
There was a haircut here: too thin hair is dangerous to bleach, so the driest tips had to be removed “surgically”. But everything worked out: a beautiful, even gray hair without a hint of a rusty tone.
Quite rare, but the most successful type of graying for coloring: dark hair is interspersed with silver almost in a proportion of 50 to 50. For a colorist, this is a challenge: you need to maintain a balance of shades and apply paint almost hair by hair. But the result is worth it!
An interesting trend that has not gained popularity yet, but it seems to me that the future belongs to it. “Dark” gray hair is a toning in which the hair does not lighten to silver, but remains dark at the roots, and light strands are formed only on the surface and with the color stretching from the roots to the tips. In general, I would save this photo and show the master if you liked it. It is very difficult to explain this in words.
This coloring is a champion in speed: we managed to completely lime the pigment and achieve a flawless shade in just 5 hours. Total? Yes, coloring usually takes longer, because between procedures it is necessary to restore the hair, “healing” it. But the condition of the client’s hair was so good that I took a chance — and set a world record! A joke, of course, but this really rarely happens.
And the following photos are just to demonstrate that nothing is impossible in our world, and silver hair is not a sign of aging, but a fashionable, stylish and beautiful shade.
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