Photo: freerangestock

Since Shellac, invented by CND, appeared in the vastness of our country in 2009, the permanent manicure procedure has become very popular. Everyone understood how convenient it is, because you can not think about the beauty of nails after applying gel polish from two weeks to a month.

Following shellac, other preparations for permanent manicure appeared, which gained popularity. However, a weighty fly in the ointment was found in the barrel of this nail honey. Fans of gel polishes began to write more and more often on the forums that after removing the coating, their nails turn into a rag and collapse. “Nails grow only under shellac, once it is removed, they peel and break constantly,” such complaints are often found on the net.

Those who claim to be experts began to intimidate users with the story that varnishes like shellac contain acid that corrodes nails. Like it or not, and whether permanent manicure is really dangerous, we asked Anna Amatuni, the master of nail modeling and manicure at the Beautyinsider&KA2 salon.

Are all varnishes acidic?

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Some salons, in order to attract customers, hang out banners almost at the entrance – “We have acid-free varnishes for persistent manicure.” But this, as you understand, is a marketing ploy.

“All long-lasting nail polishes contain acids. This is necessary for the coating to adhere to the surface of the nail. Even in products that are considered acid-free, there is a certain percentage of acids, otherwise the adhesion to the natural nail will not occur. There are no acid-free coatings, just as there are no ammonia-free dyes, ”says Anna.

Do acids damage nails?

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The firstborn from CND, the same shellac after which the permanent manicure procedure is called, was wildly acidic. It really destroyed the nail plate, which is probably why the product itself left the Russian and a number of other markets. Perhaps the manufacturers will work on the formula. Shellac was the first in this segment and completely unexplored; at the beginning of the 2000s, no one was doing anything like this. Now the situation has changed, the quality and safety of gel polishes are now monitored, exactly, as well as the percentage of acids in them.

“If the gel polish contains the percentage of acids allowed by the European Union, then it will not negatively affect the nail plate. Otherwise, if the amount of acids in the preparation is exceeded, it will corrode the upper surface of the nail, and the plate will become like a rag,” notes Amatuni.

The question is how to find out what varnishes they use in the salon, because some owners, for the sake of savings, are ready to buy drugs on the cheap, almost in transitions.

“In theory, you can ask the administrator for a certificate for varnishes, everything should be indicated in the document, up to the chemical composition of the preparations. But even here there is a problem, many of these certificates can be downloaded on the Internet,” warns Anna.

Therefore, it is important to choose a salon to begin with, focusing on reviews and word of mouth. Owners of worthy beauty establishments monitor the quality of purchased varnishes, because reputation is important to them.

But, we can tell you a number of preparations for permanent manicure, which are currently considered the safest, they have a low level of acids in the composition, and there are no harmful ingredients, such as taluols and formaldehydes, in the composition. This is a new Luxio brand from the Canadian company Akzentz, which relatively recently appeared on the Russian market and a number of salons have already purchased its preparations, Russian manufacturers, for example Imen, and the Americans OPI did not let us down.

Manicurists harm clients’ nails

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In addition to drugs, there is also a human factor. Even if the owners have high-quality varnishes, the health of the clients’ nails can be harmed by the masters themselves, violating the coating technology.

“Some masters, in order for the coating to last longer, use rather powerful acid primers – dehydrators, which should improve the adhesion to the coating. In combination with a color coating, which also contains acids, this does not have the best effect on the nail itself.

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Another point is related to the cuticle. It is no secret that when the nail, in the process of “wearing” a manicure, grows, then free space around the cuticle becomes noticeable, this is especially striking if the girl chooses bright colors. In order for this border to appear as late as possible, the masters try to apply the coating closer to the moon, and push the cuticle further, almost, figuratively speaking, “to the elbow”. If the cuticle cannot be moved further anatomically, but the master does it, he can damage the matrix (soft nail), from where the plate grows. As a result, the nails will grow crooked and even begin to peel off. And in this case, it is not the coating that is to blame, but the master, ”explains Anna.

Why you can not remove the coating yourself

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Many, in order to save money, begin to remove the coating on their own, and sometimes by barbaric methods. For example, they rip it off their nails. Naturally affect the upper part of the plate, turning the nail into a rag.

The second method, which is no longer used in good salons, is to remove the coating with nail polish remover, foil or silicone fingertips.

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“Any nail polish remover, even if it is without acetone, is still a chemical solvent. Now imagine that you put it on a cotton pad, stuck it to the nail, and added thermal exposure with the help of foil, and hold it for 10-15 minutes. This time and conditions are enough for the product to dissolve not only the coating, but also affect the upper part of the nail, dry out the plate, skin and cuticle. The most correct thing is to entrust the removal of the coating to the master. It is best to remove gel polish using a hardware technique, without violating safety precautions, of course, ”Amatuni notes.

Take a break between coats

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Most girls wear gel polish continuously, from correction to correction. In fact, the phrases from the forums that the nails should be given a break from the coating have a rational grain.

“No matter how low the percentage of acids in the coating is, it is still acid. The nail plate needs rest from any chemical influences. You can wear the coating continuously for no more than six months, then the nails should be allowed to rest for two to four months, this is the optimal time for the nail plate to be completely renewed. And then you can do a permanent manicure again, ”advises Anna Amatuni.


By Yara

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