In recent years, our market has seen a real boom in patches charged with microneedles. At first there were just patches for the eyes, now they have appeared for the nasolabial folds, forehead, neck and even the décolleté. The filling of such alien products is different – from banal hyaluronic acid to bee venom.
Manufacturers claim that the skin, slightly damaged by needles, absorbs useful components better, plus it rejuvenates itself. But is it worth it to “sit down” on such a “beauty needle”, and will patches replace Botox?
Why do cosmetics need needles?
They tried to supply cosmetics with microneedles back in the 70s of the last century, but either something went wrong in production, or in tests, as a result, scientists never received a patent.
But they did not give up and, starting from 2007, they carefully tried to think out the initial idea, and thought it out exactly by 2018.
The first cosmetics, or rather patches with biosoluble microneedles, appeared according to one of the versions in Korea, according to another in Japan, and according to the third in the USA.
Ours also did not lag behind, and by the beginning of 2019 they had developed their own technology, which they put into production. Now we are not ashamed of the domestic manufacturer either.
Why did the idea of ”put everyone on the needle” did not leave scientists. The fact is that our skin is quite dense, consists of several layers, and cosmetic components most often work on its surface, although the main problems unfold further, at the dermis level.
In order for the components to go deeper, ideally, you need to break through the armor – the epidermis, which is what microneedles do. They consist of hyaluronic acid, slightly piercing, without damaging the basal layer, help to “push” the components into the deeper layers of the skin. Plus, the skin, being damaged, begins to regenerate, triggering the processes of collagen synthesis and self-rejuvenation.
This is very similar to the method of applying the cream after using the mesoscooter. Only this roller can have a different reaction: you press a little harder, and there will be a wound, cut or severe inflammation.
Patches with microneedles, unlike this antediluvian device, are more humane. Redness, wounds after the use of these cosmetics should not be expected.
“Cosmetic microneedles are most often made from hyaluronic acid. In our case, 400 and 50 kDa. It occupies 90-98% in the polymerized layout, the rest is the active component and residual moisture, ”says Vasily Zvezdin, PhD, scientific supervisor, co-founder of Microneedle Industrial LLC, BLOM expert.
Upon contact with the skin, the needles either spring back and dissolve, or lightly pierce the skin and dissolve. In any case, after you will see only small dents on the skin. There can be no bloody mess, as they scare on some forums from certified cosmetics.
The shape, structure and mechanics of the needles in the development of a product for different parts of the face and body are selected individually, since the density of the skin is different everywhere.
How cosmetics with microneedles work
“Procedures with biosoluble microneedles as part of the course are aimed at biochemical correction of the basement membrane, which after a minimum of 28 days provides an increase in the barrier properties of the skin, an increase in the amount of collagen and the intensity of division of fibroblasts and epidermal cells. As a result, cosmetic patches correct epidermal (superficial) wrinkles, increase skin resistance to irritating factors, and improve local blood circulation,” Vasily says.
But wrinkles will not be smoothed out after the first application, especially if they are deep on the forehead or around the eyes. You can expect a wow effect in a month, and fix it within two, applying patches in a course.
From left to right: patches for the skin around the eyes with BLOM succinic acid, a mask with microneedles Microneedle Implant Mask Trimay.
As for the eye area, patches for this area can also cope with the problem of edema. But, only if they arose due to congestion, poor blood circulation in this area. With a kidney problem, miracles should not be expected, you need to deal with the doctor.
How often can you use cosmetics with microneedles
Our skin after damage is restored within two days. Therefore, patches with microneedles cannot be glued every day, you can get the same redness and irritation described on the forums. Wait 48 hours before next use. As for the duration of the course, here you need to look at how quickly the changes occur. It is enough for someone to use patches 10 times, and for someone more.
When the situation improves, do 3-4 treatments with patches every two months, this will be enough to maintain the result.
Left to right: microneedle patches Skyn Iceland, Microneedle patches for the skin around the eyes Mixit.
By the way, after applying the patches, if you experience discomfort, you can apply your usual eye cream or serum.
At what age can patches be applied
The main problems with wrinkles appear after 30 years, experts say. At 19, if you apply patches, you may not see the result, because the skin itself regenerates well, synthesizes collagen, rejuvenates itself without any prompting or stimulus from the outside.
Patches will show themselves in all their glory and demonstrate their abilities on those who are over 30 years old. They can act both as a prophylaxis and solve local problems, plus they will be an excellent help after injection procedures. Patches with microneedles will enhance and support the effect of beauty injections for a longer period.
Who should not use such cosmetics categorically
Although manufacturers say that patches are absolutely safe, there are times when their use should be stopped or even not started. For example, if after you experience redness and irritation. After all, it is known that nowadays hypoallergenic cosmetics completely do not exist. It is strictly forbidden to use patches in places where there are moles, papillomas or any inflammatory processes (acne, barley, etc.)