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Marketers have been imposing retinol products on us almost from adolescence: at 15 for acne, and from 25 for the prevention of wrinkles. Vitamin A in cosmetics is called the “holy grail” for the skin, they say that if you use it periodically in a course, then Botox will not be needed. And even if there are deep wrinkles and cheeks are outlined – retinol and only he can fix everything.
However, it is known that vitamin A is not as cute as it seems at first glance. Entering into a long-term relationship with the skin, he turns them into abusive ones. Namely, it makes the skin an ear, causes peeling, redness, and sometimes exacerbation of acne.
So does everyone need retinol, how to use it without consequences, and in what situations to abandon this component forever? Experts advise.
What is retinol and why does it matter to our skin
Retinol, which has been elevated to the rank of a “superhero” for the skin, is actually contained in it originally. However, with age, its amount decreases, and then wrinkles, rashes and pigmentation make themselves felt. In the body, vitamin A is not synthesized automatically, so you have to get the right “dose” from the outside.
Irina Barabanova
dermatocosmetologist, specialist in all types of injection and hardware techniques of the clinic “Beauty Time”
Retinol in cosmetics normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, suppresses chronic inflammation, stimulates the work of fibroblasts, thus enhancing the production of hyaluronic acid and collagen in the skin. That is, it tightens the skin and evens out the tone. Promotes cell regeneration and renewal of the epidermis, fights pigmentation, moisturizes. It has powerful antioxidant properties and protects the skin from negative environmental influences. Thus, we can use retinol both in the anti-aging program and in the complex treatment of acne. For example, a mother uses it against wrinkles, and a teenage daughter uses it for inflammation.
In what forms can it be found in cosmetics
You have probably seen marks on cosmetic jars in what form retinol is used (encapsulated or free) and what percentage of it is contained in the product. Encapsulated retinol is more active, as it is enclosed in a liposome capsule, which retains its properties and protects from external influences. As for the percentage, it all depends on the means. In home cosmetics, retinol can be 0.5 percent, and in a salon, say for peeling, already in the amount of 10 percent.
Irina Barabanova
dermatocosmetologist, specialist in all types of injection and hardware techniques of the clinic “Beauty Time”
The concentration of retinol can start from 0.1% and reach 0.4% – such cosmetics can be found in ordinary stores and used independently, however, keep in mind that these are rather weak remedies.
Creams and serums with a concentration of 0.4% to 1% are already more powerful, but should only be used for their intended purpose and under the supervision of a specialist. They can be purchased at pharmacies and specialized professional cosmetics stores.
Does everyone need retinol and when
Retinol should not be used just for prevention. All experts are sure of this. If the skin is in good condition, that is, it does not have acne, pigmentation, and wrinkles, it is better not to use cosmetics with vitamin A. Retinol is an active ingredient that should only be used for visible problems.
1. Retinol Facial Cream Vital esfolio. 2. Rejuvenating face and neck cream Soin Anti-Age Eisenberg. 3. Redermic Retinol La Roche-Posay intensive concentrated anti-aging care. 4. Night cream with retinol, shea butter and Art&Fact niacinamides.
How to use retinol without consequences
It is known that retinol quickly copes with the task, but while it works wonders, it can also do things. Many have heard about peeling, pimples and redness after applying cosmetics with vitamin A, and someone has experienced a negative impact. And only a small percentage of people will not have visible aggressive reactions to retinol. Troubles occur because vitamin A greatly dries and irritates the skin. Therefore, it is better to use such cosmetics according to a special scheme.
Alexander Prokofiev
dermatovenereologist La Roche-Posay
A beginner is recommended lower concentrations of retinol, and it is better not to use the product every day, but to take breaks of up to 2-3 days between using the product. The application intervals can then be shortened. The cream can then be used daily.
A retinol product should be applied to dry skin, so after washing, thoroughly pat your face dry, on wet skin the risk of irritation increases. Always use retinol products at night as they can sensitize your skin. During the day, you need to use sunscreens with an SPF factor of 30 or more. If retinoic dermatitis appears, you need to postpone the remedy with vitamin A for a while, actively moisturize the skin, and then, when everything passes, return to it.
There is an alternative to the “cautious use scheme”. That is, immediately give the skin a shock dose of retinol, but this is not for aesthetes.
Irina Barabanova
dermatocosmetologist, specialist in all types of injection and hardware techniques of the clinic “Beauty Time”
Here you need to “endure”, and after 1-2 weeks, adverse events will begin to pass on their own. To support the skin during this period, you need to additionally nourish, moisturize and restore it, using creams with squalane, ceramides, aloe vera, vitamin E, allantoin, and also use mild skin cleansers (foams, mousses without alcohol).
1. Dr.brandt Triple Retinol Cream. 2. Face cream with retinol REVOX B77. 3. Night face cream Sammy Beauty. 4. Aravia multiactive retinol serum.
What can replace retinol
If you can’t stand any kind of flaking, redness and breakouts, slowly building a relationship with the “abuser” retinol, the cosmetics industry offers alternatives. Vitamin C works in a similar way with retinol, though cosmetics with it also need to be selected in the right concentration. Different groups of peptides work according to the same scheme.
But marketers recognize bucachiol as the best alternative, they also actively promote cosmetics with this component. It is almost a salvation for those who have suffered from retinol, according to experts. Only bucachiol works with softer skin, and does not act as an aggressor.
Irina Barabanova
dermatocosmetologist, specialist in all types of injection and hardware techniques of the clinic “Beauty Time”
It acts on the same receptors in the skin that are sensitive to retinol, but does not cause irritation or flaking. It also perfectly fights wrinkles and brightens pigmentation, and is suitable for sensitive skin.
By the way, if you eat foods rich in retinol, you can also compensate for its lack in the body. So add greens and vegetables, animal foods (especially beef liver), fish oil, salmon fish, dairy products to the menu, be sure to eat the yolk.
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