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Jennifer Lopez, Margot Robbie, Kim Kardashian and other stars demonstrating permanent waving. A new round of popularity was given to her by modern compositions that do not turn into a lamb, and her hair into straw. What is the beauty of the new versions of perms? Let’s figure it out.
The history of perm in our country
Perm from the USSR appeared in 1936. It was steam and electric and enjoyed incredible popularity. In the 40s, girls wanted to look like film star Lyubov Orlova, the owner of small curls and blond in the manner Marlene Dietrich.
Girls, en masse signed up for a makeover to become like their favorite star. And at one time they asked to do both clarification and perm.
True, the compositions were ruthless and merciless to the hair. Alkali was the soloist of the perm, and perhydrol was the clarifier. Imagine this infernal mixture. After the procedure, after a while, the hair turned into tow and began to fall out.
As for the curl itself, after the girls looked like sheep, and far from being film stars. The whole problem was that the papillots were of the same standard size, very small.
It is worth noting that the effect of curling, and the compositions themselves were approximately the same everywhere, both in Russia and in Europe. The wind changed only in 1970, when the composition was finalized in the west, introducing thioglycolic acid and ammonia instead of alkali. This duet was considered more gentle, but still severely injured the hair.
How perms have changed over the years
Complaints after the procedure poured into the salons in tons. Curling even on thioglycol stimulated hair loss and even led to alopecia.
The popularity of the procedure has greatly increased. And the situation was decided to change by technologists of one brand in the USA, who in 1999 tried to launch the first version of biowave without thioglycolic acid, and improved the formula in 2009.
Soon the French joined the race, and after the Japanese, who have developed the most advanced and safe biowave formulas to date. Thanks to the fact that new compositions have appeared, perm has again become fashionable, primarily among the stars. Celebrities prove that permanent curls do not need to be afraid.
Irina Cherepanova
Lead Technologist DEMI
Previously, hair fell out after perm for several reasons. The most important was just thioglycolic acid. How it worked: it destroyed the disulfide bonds of the hair, while also affecting the deep protein bonds. Thermal exposure under the climazon added oil to the fire, stimulating the rapid destruction of the hair. Very often, the procedure was also done on bleached hair, where there is already a small amount of disulfide bonds.
In fact, the perm finished off the strands, which soon fell off after the procedure. Modern formulations do not contain thioglycolic acid. It is replaced by L-cysteine and L-cysteomine. These substances destroy the disulfide bonds of the cell-membrane complex, but do not affect the deep protein bonds that make up the hair shaft. This creates a curl that holds well, and the hair itself is not injured and does not fall out.
How modern perm is made
No climazons, foul-smelling compounds are now used. As well as scary iron papillots of the same size from the Soviet era. The first thing the process begins with is the choice of the shape and size of the curls. A variety of bobbin diameters allows you to create curls – from wild afro to romantic casual or Hollywood curl. Everything depends on your desire.
After you have chosen the shape of the curl, you must decide how much you want to go with curls. A variety of compositions allows you to wear curls from 3 months to six months.
After examining your hair, the master will select the composition and according to their structure. For example, for clarified ones, it will be active not by 100, but by 80 percent.
Irina Cherepanova
Lead Technologist DEMI
After all the preparation, the hair is wound on bobbins of the selected diameter, then the first composition is applied, which destroys disulfide bonds. Followed by the second, which creates new disulfide bonds and fixes the curl. You get curls in an hour without any climazon. After a certain period of time, the hair grows painlessly and straightens.
By the way, in addition to curls, with the help of a perm you can also create a long-term basal volume if desired.
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How to care for hair after a perm
Remember how the heroine Reese Witherspoon in the movie “Legally Blonde” figured out the real killer? She skillfully forced the victim’s daughter, who had a perm on the day of the lawsuit, to confess. “And after the perm, you went to the shower? But, after all, your perm is intact, and after chemistry, in order to prevent the breakdown of ammonium thioglycol, you need to refrain from washing your hair for at least a day, ”the future lawyer summed up. So the father’s killer got caught.
But nowadays, a blonde would not so easily catch a criminal on her word, because after a modern perm, you can wash your hair on the same day. But you probably don’t want to do that. In the old days, I really wanted to wash my hair immediately after the procedure, since thioglycolic acid left an unpleasant odor on the hair. Modern formulations do not.
True, hair after curling will need special care. You can find funds in any cosmetic network. Choose a shampoo according to the type of scalp, but a balm and hair mask with moisturizing ingredients. Among them are keratin, oils, hyaluronic acid.
It’s also important to always use a heat protectant before drying your hair so you don’t dry out your strands. After all, thermal exposure draws moisture out of the hair.
As for styling. To texture curls, use special sprays, fluids or creams for curly hair, including fixatives.
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