Microneedling is one of the procedures that the beauty industry offers for the beauty and youthfulness of the skin. The procedure cannot be called new, since it belongs to the well-known mesoscooter therapy. What is microneedling, does the procedure really bring real benefits?
What is microneedling
Microneedling is a cosmetic procedure that is carried out using a mesoscooter or a similar instrument, which is called a “dermastamp”. The second, as a rule, is used only in the conditions of cosmetology clinics.
Dermaroller is a roller-shaped instrument covered with microneedles with a diameter of 0.5 to 2.5 mm, with the help of which many micro-punctures are created on the skin. Mesoscooter therapy has an anti-aging focus, therefore, before the procedure, a serum with a high concentration of active ingredients is applied to the face, for example, with hyaluronic acid, antioxidant complexes, epidermal growth factors. However, mesoscooters also used to combat stretch marks, post-acne marks, dull skin color.
How does mesoscooter therapy work?
Thanks to micropunctures, that is, slight damage to the upper layer of the epidermis, regeneration processes are launched in the skin, which contributes to a rejuvenating effect. In addition, micro-punctures allow the nutrients of the serums to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, microneedling is both a mechanical impact and an impact with cosmetics.
The main advantage of this procedure is that it allows you to overcome the epidermal barrier and deliver active substances to places where cosmetics cannot deliver them. As a result, it contributes to a more pronounced anti-aging effect.
Piercing the upper layers of the epidermis not only enhances the effect of serums, but also stimulates the synthesis of natural skin collagen, reduces the depth of wrinkles, smoothes scars, and improves complexion.
In 2008, a study was conducted in Germany, which involved 480 patients with wrinkles, aging skin, stretch marks and scars. The aim of the study was to find out how mesoscooter therapy helps to increase the production of collagen and elastin by skin cells. The study showed that 6 months after a course of microneedle treatments, collagen and elastin production improved by 40%. The researchers concluded that mesoscooter therapy can be considered a simple and quick method of dealing with wrinkles and scars.
Microneedling is used to improve hair growth. In 2013, a study was conducted in India on the effect of microneedling on mild to moderate severity of androgenetic alopecia. 100 subjects were divided into two groups. One group used lotion to strengthen and grow hair, the second group used lotion, and then treatment of the scalp with microneedles. After 12 weeks, the amount of hair in the second group increased by 91.4%, while in the first — by 22.2%. The researchers concluded that microneedling can be considered a safe and promising way to stimulate hair follicles.
How is the procedure carried out
First, the skin is prepared for the procedure, for which it is cleaned and disinfected. After that, serum is applied to the face and the skin is treated with a microneedle nozzle. Since the upper layer of the epidermis receives numerous punctures, the procedure can be painful. With a high pain threshold, it is better to use an anesthetic cream — this way the procedure will be more comfortable.
After the skin is treated with microneedles. Professional nozzle with microneedles allows you to adjust the depth of penetration of the needles. For example, for areas with particularly thin skin, such as the skin around the eyes, a minimum depth is usually set, while for the cheeks, especially the area with nasolabial folds, the puncture depth can be increased to 2.5 mm.
During the procedure with needles longer than 1 mm, droplets of blood from punctures appear on the face, so after that the face must be treated with an antiseptic. After microneedling, redness and swelling of the face may persist for a day.
The procedure can be performed not only on the face, but also on the neck, décolleté, body, scalp. Treatment of the skin with microneedles is contraindicated during pregnancy, as well as in the presence of inflammatory processes in the affected area.
Using the mesoscooter at home, you must follow safety precautions. And first of all — do not exceed the service life of the tool, which is no more than 6 months. After that, the needles become blunt and can injure the skin. Also, the device must be disinfected after each use.
What you need to know
With all the advantages of microneedling, you need to understand that there is a fundamental difference between a professional procedure in cosmetology clinics and a home mesoscooter. The main difference is in the length of the needles.
So, home mesoscooters have a needle length of 0.2-0.5 mm. Professional — from 1 to 2.5 mm. This means that home instruments work only within the epidermis and conduct the active components of the serums only into the layers of the epidermis, while professional nozzles with microneedles overcome the epidermal barrier and ensure the penetration of the components into the dermis, thereby stimulating collagen synthesis. Thus, tools for home use cannot cope with serious age-related changes.
As for professional mesoscooters, it is categorically not recommended to use them at home, since needles with a length of 1 mm or more violate the integrity of the skin, and this can lead to infection. Moreover, when using professional needles, open serums or creams that you have already used and removed from the bottle with your fingers should not be applied to the skin, since they are no longer sterile.
Only in the conditions of beauty parlors can one achieve the sterility that is necessary for procedures in which the skin is treated with needles until drops of blood appear.
It is also important that brands that produce quality products for professional use (and this is the quality of materials and the correct sharpening of needles) sell instruments only to licensed clinics. If tools with a needle length of 1 mm or more are sold in the public domain, then you should think about the safety of such tools.
Dr. Manish Shah, Surgeon
Microneedling, in one form or another, has been practiced for over twenty years. Today, it is mostly used in the practice of skin care professionals in the field of cosmetology. As with any minimally invasive procedure, the best results are achieved by those patients who use microneedling as part of a comprehensive anti-aging care. For example, in my practice I combine microneedling with plasma therapy.
This procedure is less traumatic than other skin treatments such as chemical peels or laser therapy. It is also more effective than other aggressive treatments for acne scars.
However, like any other procedure, microneedling can cause complications such as scarring, infection, pigmentation, and bruising.
Percutaneous collagen induction therapy: an alternative treatment for scars, wrinkles, and skin laxity / Aust MC, Fernandes D., Kolokythas P., Kaplan HM, et al // Plast Reconstr Surg. — 2008
Response to Microneedling Treatment in Men with Androgenetic Alopecia Who Failed to Respond to Conventional Therapy / Dhurat R., Mathapati S. // Indian J Dermatol. — 2015
A Randomized Evaluator Blinded Study of Effect of Microneedling in Androgenetic Alopecia: A Pilot Study / Rachita Dhurat, Ganesh Avhad, Ameet Dandale, et al // Int J Trichology — 2013